Exuma Cays, Bahamas
April/May 2000
Two-week sea kayaking trip with Phil, traversing the Exuma Cays archipelago from Norman’s Cay in the north to Georgetown in the south, about 130 miles. The trip included daily snorkeling (just jump out of your kayak) including the Thunderball Grotto (featured in the James Bond movie of the same name); the Exuma Cays Marine Park; a visit to Pablo Escobar’s private island (the fancy house and cars are still there, but have been extensively looted); and kayak sailing.
Back in 2000, before the explosion of guide services, sea kayaking and camping on the islands was highly discouraged (technically illegal). This was to prevent freeloading hippies like ourselves from cluttering up the islands, and to encourage spending at local hotels, restaurants, and businesses. I wasn’t aware of any sea kayak rental or guide services at that time. The only ways from Nassau to the Exuma Cays was by either a long boat ride or a small plane. We had to bring our own folding sea kayaks, Feathercraft K1 Expedition kayaks (unfortunately Feathercraft is no longer in business, after 40 years), because no rentals were available. The kayaks could collapse down to the size of a large backpack, weighed about 50 lbs., were 17 feet long when unfolded, and were able to get through customs discreetly (facilitated with tips to friendly porters), and were able to be transported by small plane. We landed on Norman’s Cay and proceeded from there south, camping on beaches. It was also the first time I’d used a kayak with a mast on it, and so we were able to sail, even relaxing and reading a book on the way.
